FWD overhead panel Print E-mail
Written by Vidar Fagerjord   
Tuesday, 11 May 2010 19:40

Update 07 march.07

I just ordered the FWD overhead kit from Flyengravity:

 

The kit in the above pictures is not the most updated version - I will get the latest version which uses another kind of annunciators than the AFT overhead. They look like this:

If you look at the picture on the right, you'll see that Flyengravity really has tried to resemble the real thing. Even the little groove on the sides is there. I've said it many times, and I'll say it again: If you want realism, Flyengravity produces amazing stuff!

PS: I realize that I sound like a commercial here, but am really excited about this! I started out with some panels that didn't satisfy me, but now I will get the level of realism I want. Can't wait! It's going to be two LONG months...

Update 16 april.07

YESS! The overhead panels has arrived! Here's a few teaser pictures while you wait for me to do some building!

Here's the back panels, made from aluminium. Here's the light/start switch part of the overhead, with hardware mounted.
Here's the panels placed on the backpanels. In front, the start switch/lights backplate and lightplate. The backside of the light/start switch light plate. As you can see, the lightplate has a cutout for the rotary switch fastening nut.
Detail picture of the start switch/lights panel. The white switch covers comes from FlyEngravity. The landing light switchcovers from Simparts.de really add that extra touch to it!

PS: I might have sounded like a commercial, but with good reason. These panels are AWESOME!

Annunciator set

The Annunciator set from FlyEngravity consists of 4 parts:

From left to right:

  1. LED holder. Glue to annunciator holder and mount 2 LED's of desired color.
  2. Annunciator holder, goes into the back plates.
  3. Annunciator, goes into the annunciator holder.
  4. Label. Glue to the Annunciator.

I used UHU Plast® Spezial model builders glue, which has a few very good qualities:

  • The thin cannula enable precise and sparingly apply on places wih difficult access.
  • Bonds really firmly by dissolving the surface of the plastic (cold welding).
  • The tough elastic adhesive film stays crystal-clear and has gap-filling properties.

WARNING: Read the update below!

And after a couple of hours work, I got this:

101 happy annunciators!

Update 01. sept. 07

I've made a frame for the overhead. Check this page.

A note on the glue: The UHU goo didn't work out. Instead, I used Casco "crazyglue" / express glue (the kind that dries in 10 seconds). Worked like a charm, even though I got stuck at one point. Literally.

Update 12. nov. 07

If you've looked at the interfacing page, you've discovered what I've been doing since last update. The overhead is now almost complete, and just a few bits and pieces is missing. The interfacing prosess is going along quite nicely, and I should be finished with that before christmas.

Anyway, here's some pictures:

It's beginning to look like christmas!

Improvisation!

On the image above to the left, you can clearly see that things are coming along now! The aluminium switch knobs from FlyEngravity add a whole new level of realism to the overhead, not to mention that they give a very satisfying tactile feedback!

NOTAM: The FlyEngravity aluminium switch covers are made for switches with long shafts! If you've as "lucky" as me, you might have switches with short shafts. The solution is a product called FLASH Cyanoacrylate (the part about cyano worries me a bit...). It is a flash glue / crazy glue that bonds most materials in a minute or two, and it is thick enough to fill small gaps.

As seen in the picture above to the right, improvisation is sometimes (okay, all the times) needed when building a simulator. To prevent the switch covers from getting out of line with the switch shaft, I used a measuring tape as shown to support the switch. Simplicity! Or as I use to put it: KISS. KEEP IT SIMPLE, Stupid! (Stupid is interchangeable with simmer, simbuilder and all other nicknames starting with the letter "s". So don't whine!)

PS: pay attention to the boeing style knob in the right picture. Notice the missing black border around the white index mark? All the images I've seen on the 'net from real cockpits is just like that.
That's the sort of details I like to implement! And I will drill a small hole in the red switch cover over the IDG switches (click on the link if you don't speak geek) and add a small copper wire to make it look like they are sealed. In my head it says: If you do it, do it RIGHT!

Hmmm.... I might pay more attention to the white line of text at the top of my website...

Update 20. nov. 07

I've been doing some work on switches and details:

Here's a closeup of the electrical panel. Notice the rounded-off switches? Detail shot of the air condition panel. Just need to fit the temperature gauge and a screw, and it is complete. Love the look!
A larger shot of the upper right side of the forward overhead panel. All switches in place. The instruments will be mounted soon. And here's a typical "inflight setup". I love this hobby!

Just showing the size of this thingy. Those Boeing style knobs have a great feel!

Geek? Yeah, I am aware...

At the moment, this is what I have to do on the overhead:

  • Add all instruments. I have to make the dummy ones, but that shouldn't be too complicated (yeah right! Heard that before...).
  • Finish the interfacing work (not much left).
  • Find a good solution on how to show some digits at the electrical panel (just eyecandy), and get the FLT ALT and LAND ALT digits up and running.
  • Mount the last items on the aft overhead.
  • Make a PCB for the LE DEVICES panel (AFT overhead) so it works like the real deal.
  • Add backlighting.
  • Make a back cover.
  • Make a stand for the thingy so it hangs above my head.

And of course: In time make start switches that works like they SHOULD do. A lot of work, but MAN it's fun!

Last Updated on Tuesday, 11 May 2010 19:46
 
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