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Building a console - Console page 2 Print E-mail
Written by Vidar Fagerjord   
Saturday, 24 July 2010 00:04
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Update 29. August 2010

Since the last update I've finished the two side-"towers" and glued some parts. The plywood panels has been stained so that the frames can be glued together. I chose to stain first in order to avoid gaps in the finish should the panels move during the seasons.

I've also constructed the "ladder" on which the keyboard stack will rest. I used epoxy glue for this, since I wanted a very short cure time in order to avoid any errors. The "ladder" needs to be dead square, or the side panels will go out of alignment. I used a large square, clamped it to the front part and twisted the whole thing into coherence - that means, into square.

The epoxy cured in 5 minutes, and everything is dead on now. I then sanded the sawmarks from the table saw and routed a 45 degree bevel at the front where my feet will move about.

Here's how I mount the dowels that keeps everything together:

1. Mark it...

Drill it using a depth stopper on the drill bit (the hole is half the length of the dowel)...

Place center markers in the holes, press the other piece firmly into place, drill according to the marks, insert dowels and mount! Remember to remove the center markers though..

It also helps if you draw a triangle across the "seam" so that you know which side goes where afterwards. Trust me, you'll forget...

I also tried a new thing: resawing a board into thinner strips in order to create a wider panel. This is for the "coffe cup holders" on each side of the manuals.

I sawed a piece of a board in three pieces after I planed it and made all sides sqare to eachother (important!). I then dimensioned the pieces so that all of them was exaclty the same thickness. I then made a "bookmatch" - the grain pattern is matched. I marked the board before cutting so that I would know which board goes where in the stack. Then I "folded" the pieces out like a sheet of paper that has been folded into a tall pamphlet (first third folded to the front, last third folded to the back):

I then glued them and clamped the panel firmly:

Here's a great tip: use blue tape to create a "hinge" on the face of the panel. There will be very little glue squeeze-out, and the edges will be aligned perfectly. And it makes the glueup that much easier too!

The panel will be cut in two parts and mounted to the "ladder" - I will use the router to create a dado around the edges where the panel will be mounted, so that the panel can be flush with the "ladder" top edge. Relax, I'll post images to clarify my "explanation"...

Another week off work (vacation time!), so things should be moving quite rapidly now. Hopefully I'll be able to bring the parts into my livingroom for a quick "testmount" in a day or three.

Update 30. august 2010

Just a quick follow-up on the "coffee cup holders" and how the glued-up panel is mounted to the "ladder". I cut the panel in two, then used the planer / thicknesser to refine all the edges and faces. I then used a straight-edge and the copying attachment on the router to make a dado for the panel pieces:

I used a chisel to make the corner square. The dado is just a hair too shallow, allowing me to sand the  panel flush with the support beam. Here's an image of the test fit:

I then applied glue to the dado, placed the panel into it and clamped the living daylight out of it! I will glue a piece of wood underneath to support the panel, although it will never hold any weight besides a cup of coffee...

More to follow soon! This is going to be a productive vacation week! :)

Update 31. august 2010

Things are slowly coming together now. The stain on the inlay panels has cured, and I glued up the cabinet sides today:

The long clamps I bought for the bench are great! I could use even longer clamps in order to glue the bottom part of the cabinet sides, but I'll manage somehow.

I decided to try stained inlay panels with natural frames in order to make the organ case less dominating. And it proved to be a good idea! It really look nice; the images from my cellphone does not do them justice. Here's a shot of a completed cabinet side:

And a shot from "inside" the cabinet:

 

 The little thingamabob that extends outwards on the left side is the support for the "ladder" on which the keyboard stack will rest.

I thought I would show you the raw material I'm using:

This is a piece of white Ash, as it comes from the lumberyard. After running it through the planer on two sides, this is the result:

The next step is to use the thicknesser to get the piece down to the desired thickness, and to make the two wide faces parallell. If needed, I use the table saw to make the two small faces parallell too. But most often you'll need to rip the board down in thinner pieces, and it does not make any sense to mill the board "four square". Very often the board is slightly wider on one end, and you might get more out of the board if you can cut a part from the widest end - instead of having to use another board.

Note that you should ALLWAYS get the board(s) at least 10 cm / 4" longer than needed. It is very easy to get snipe on the ends when using the thicknesser (a small dent in the surface - google has the answer), and you should keep that in mind. Also, the outer end of a board, usually about 2-3 cm (about 1"), tends to be very dry or have some sort of error or miscoloring to it. Plan for that, but do not throw away! Everything can and will be used - and that's a very eco-friendly thing to do. Both economical and ecological.



Last Updated on Wednesday, 20 October 2010 22:48
 
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